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1963 ford thunderbird wiper switch4/6/2024 I should have known just by looking at it that the breaker was the problem, but I'm a knucklehead and had to learn the hard way. The circuit breaker under the hood, on the other hand, looked like a piece of junk, rusty, oxidized, with rust oozing out from the insides. For example, the drivers window motor was sent out for repair, and aside from an intermittent ground wire, was a beautifully preserved motor, no corrosion or nothing-and it looked good too. One thing I learned from this power window crap is, examine the various parts from a very common sense point of view. ![]() Yeah, ground is also a Bee Eye Tee See Aitch, for sure. Hope that helps, I could be completely wrong! So, check the voltage at the breaker (and check the breaker for continuity), but also check the current. So, I bypassed the window circuit breaker and bingo, windows work (well, one of them, anyway, the others are binding in the doors). 25 amps coming through the circuit, barely enough to tickle the motor. ![]() Finally a friend working in auto electrics told me "check the current"-maybe the circuit allows voltage to flow, but not adequate current or oomph to drive the motor. But the window would not budge, even after I sent the motor to a helpful Thunderbird shop in Oregon for a checkup. I had a solid 12 volts going into the driver's window motor, and the switch worked, too. I could not for the life of me figure out the window malfunction. I have the manual also (though my manual is a 1964), but I found these online wiring diagrams helpful.įinally, here's the kicker in my power window problem maybe it will inform your search too. You'll find the breaker next to the fuse box, invisible from the floor of the car and tucked up under the dash you might need a mirror to see it. For what it's worth, our car has two-speed wipers, and the optional washer motor. Once I determined it was not window-related, I left the under-dash breaker alone. But checking the wiring diagram, I found it connected to the wiper circuit. Aha! I thought, this might tie into the windows. I recently discovered the problem was in the window circuit breaker (attached to the starter relay) all along.Īnyway, in my exhaustive, amateur search for the elusive power window gremlin, I discovered a circuit breaker under the dash, right next to the fuse box. Our 1963 two-door sedan has original power windows-none of which work-which I've been working on for almost a year. Circuit breakers are the bane of my existence lately. Before removing the wiper motor review the article at Car Tech, Body/Suspension/ Steering, the third article from the bottom titled “How to Improve Windshield Wiper Function”.Oh, Fiji, my thoughts are with you. After the control cable is removed the wiper motor can be removed from under the dash. 5- You can now drop the wiper motor down enough to remove the control cable retainer. Bracket P/N 17496 will remain attached to the body of the car. 4- Remove motor retainer screws from motor mount bracket P/N 17496. ![]() The rubber grommets P/N 17562 will remain in the ends of the wiper arms. 3- Push the arms P/N 17566 RH & 17567 LH off the wiper motor arm studs. 2-Remove arm retainer spring P/N 17450, pull up on the spring and it will release from the wiper motor arm retainer studs, being careful not drop the spring. 1- Disconnect the vacuum hose to wiper motor P/N 17543, it is not clamped and should pull off. Once you are under the dash and have located the wiper motor it can be removed by following the steps below. Access to the wiper motor can be enhanced by removing the seat but is not necessary. The 12V power supply to the A/C unit must be disconnected. The A/C unit hoses do not require removal. If the car is equipped with an under-dash air conditioner the evaporator must be dropped down and push to the side. The wiper motor can be removed and replaced from under the dash. The windshield vacuum wiper motor is mounted to a bracket P/N 17496, near the center of the upper portion of the firewall under the dash.
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